Serpari

In Central Italy the ancient Roman worship to Goddess Angitia (from latin “anguis”, snake) can still be found today in many religious festivals of springtime. One of the most amazing is that of Cocullo’s “serpari” (“snake catchers”). In ancient times, snakes were associated with healing arts and Angitia was a healing goddess; with Christianity, she was replaced by St. Dominic who lived in the small town of Cocullo for several years and is considered to be protector against snakebite and hydrophobia. In early spring, serpari get into the woods and chase hundreds of snakes. They place them into clay containers and feed them for weeks before taking to cover the St. Dominic statue and march it through the streets. This snake ritual is so old and every year attracts mass medias and researchers from anywhere. Even more striking is the relationship between local people, especially kids, and the surprisingly calm reptiles. The snake is the most symbolic animal in the sacred-profane Christian dichotomy: it represents the dual expression of good and evil, but in other cultures it is a symbol of fertility and rebirth. In Chinese mythology, it is the Dragon God, which brings rain and yang masculine power of generation. In that culture, it is a spiritual symbol of prosperity and harmony whereas in Europe is perceived aggressive and destructive. The ritual seems to recall aspects surprisingly closer to that of the Oriental culture while still testifying the rich and diverse traditions of Southern Italy. Images exhibition: Canon Lucia pigment ink on Canson Baryta 310gr. paper A3.

Girl wearing a snake: boys and girls wear snakes days before the procession of St. Dominic, which is held the first of May in Cocullo, Central Italy.

Weighing the snakes: a little boy calms down a snake by putting his hands over the animal’s head. As stated by the law snakes census is taken by specialists who fill a special registry, each year measuring sizes and checking up health conditions of the animals. The snakes are microchipped and the day after the festival they are released back in the woods.

Children play with snakes: in the days before the procession local children carry snakes for fun.

Local people #1: a young man proudly showing three snakes during the procession of St. Dominic in Cocullo, Italy.

Local people #2: a young man carrying a big snake, shows it to astonished tourists in the crowd before the procession of St. Dominic in Cocullo.

A tourist adorned with a snake: a local old man offers a snake to a tourist to wear as a necklace to participate in the St. Dominic’s procession.

St. Dominic exits the Church and is draped with snakes: as prohibited by the religion, snakes cannot enter the church and therefore the statue can be draped with snakes only once the procession is outside.

St. Dominic is taken around the village: the St. Dominic statue is carried in procession draped with snakes, following a centuries long tradition.

St. Dominic is taken back to the Church: the Church of St. Mary of Graces in Cocullo was declared a national monument and dates back to the 13th century. It has a rectangular Romanesque-Gothic façade which is typical of the religious architecture of the Abruzzo region.

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